News & Reviews

Cincinnati Magazine: June 2008

“Square Meal - Via Vite lights up downtown's piazza with traditional Italian favorites.”

By Donna Covrett

Ten minutes ago, the decibel level from the table of four behind me was considerably louder. Glasses were clinking, congratulations were floating around; anecdotes were started, interrupted, and embellished. But now, curiously, they've turned quiet. I can make out muted grunts, smacks, and moans. A sigh is followed by a drawn out "Ohhh yeaahh," then a "Come to papa." Definitely male. A semi-giggle, a long audible exhale, and then "Oh God!" Decidedly female. It's as if I'm listening to a late-night soft porn movie from another room-the one your partner is watching when he thinks you've fallen asleep. I'm dying to turn around and look, but I already know there is nowhere else to land my eyes if I'm caught staring, as the four diners are directly facing my table from one of Via Vite's high-backed semicircular booths. I wish I could get a full report on the love-fest taking place behind me, but my dining companion chose this moment to run to the car. I crank my head a little to the right-perhaps I'll catch a reflection in the glass. Dammit, nothing. Suddenly, there is a low whisper in my left ear. "Lamb shank with polenta. Cioppino. Bolognese. Pork chop." It's the server. He scoots away faster than he appeared. He's my new best friend.

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