Where to Eat Now: Best New Restaurant
Other than Fountain Square, the corner of Walnut and Sixth streets was the most conspicuous parcel of restaurant real estate in 2007. The former Bella space, with its sleek two-story wall of windows next to the Aronoff Center for the Arts and across the street from the Contemporary Arts Center, would require an equally visible restaurateur to bring it back to life. Buzz about who would move in circulated faster than e-mail spam, but many expected that Chef David Falk would finally find a home for his Mexican restaurant, Nada. Mexican? On a prominent downtown corner? Absolutely. We have a few great taquerias and a couple of good Tex-Mex spots around town, but we’ve been missing a Rick Bayless–style restaurant (he owns the multi-award-winning Frontera Grill and Topolobampo in Chicago) that specializes in authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare.
Falk, who is as passionate about regional Mexican food as he is about Italian cuisine, has been planning Nada for three years. “From the time I ate Rick Bayless’s food in Chicago, I knew that I wanted to bring this idea to Cincinnati,” Falk says. The process was like “building an airplane and flying it at the same time.”
Architect Don Beck has conceived a glam but casual environment. Nada’s kitchen is exposed, but walls have been removed to create more open space, and a sweeping, cinematic staircase separates the two levels, both with dining rooms: The first floor accommodates walk-ins, while upstairs is held for reservations. There’s a wonderfully cheeky spirit throughout the entire place—Mexican comics on the menu covers, telenovelas in the bathroom, framed photographs of a Nada cook in drag on the walls.
When it comes to the food, Falk and his chef Jonathan Mouch have, quite simply, nailed it. There’s not a sizzling platter or hill of grated yellow cheese in sight. Instead, you’ll find a concise menu of authentic antojitos (little whims) and tacos that seem straight from a Mexican street vendor; salads and sides, including a plantain and potato mash; cazuelas (Mexican stews); large plates; and desserts. I am crazy for the sopes, two griddled masa cakes—a thicker cousin of the tortilla—mounded with a blackened, spicy shred of short ribs; chipotle salsa; salty, aged, feta-like cotija cheese; and vinegary onions. The lamb cazuela (there are also chicken and pork options) rocks macho: the braised lamb, ancho mole, raisins, and poblano rice combine to create a virile cologne of south central Mexico, all heat and smoke.
Traditional tacos—of mahi mahi, barbacoa (short ribs), and carnitas (braised pork)—share space with modern dishes. Pork chops get a smoky adobo chile rub before being expertly grilled and served with an orange habanero demi-glace; garlicky charred corn kernels and toasted fregula, a grain similar to couscous, serve as a bed for a filet of mahi mahi; dreamy mac-n-cheese looks harmless, but there’s just enough of a roasted poblano and jalapeno punch to have you reaching for another icy margarita. So why is Nada the best new restaurant among the sudden crop of new stand-outs? Is it the location? The chef? The food? All of the above.
The Runners-up
Via Vite, 520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483
An Italian trattoria right on Fountain Square? Perfetto! The contemporary steel and glass design offers great views of our own little piazza. Wood-fired pizzas and paninis, signature pastas with Bolognese and Vongole sauces, satiny soups, fresh salads, and an interesting list of Italian wines have kept this restaurant full since its opening last fall.
Hugo, 3235 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 321-4846
Hugo’s low-country cuisine and gracious hospitality deliver sophisticated comfort with a Southern accent. Blending the familiar with the fresh, Chef Sean Daly exhibits true grits in plates such as pork chop, Hoppin’ John, and greens, or a risotto with duck confit, cabbage, and pecorino. It’s contemporary soul food that’s certain to blow you away.
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Originally published in the March 2008 issue.
